Custom smokey

Our room at The Times Hostel Camden Place had one spot in particular that was highly suited for applying makeup; The windowsill. Photo courtesy of my friend and travelling companion.

As you probably already know I went to Ireland last summer with a friend of mine. Every day of our holiday spent in Dublin included a visit to Debenhams and Urban Decay so that I could badger the poor lasses working there (bless them for keeping up with me) about the release of UDs Smoked palette. Of course I had to get some other stuff, and my friend got caught up in what I like to call “The Siri-effect”.

“The Siri-effect” has nothing to do with Apple’s Siri Software, although, being so awesome and bright that Apple created a software in your honour does speak for itself (their mistake of course being that they forgot to consult me on the matter). Upon meeting a guy from back home, a year my elder, at a party with another friend, he told her that back in school he never bothered going to the school library, looking things up online or checking the curricular books for answers to assignments. He’d just drop by my work station and ask me instead. But as always, I digress. Back to “”The Siri-effect”.

“The Siri-effect” is the influence I might have on girls I meet and befriend who upon getting to know me better, and listening to my blather about makeup suddenly becomes very interested themselves, wanting to learn more about application, uses more and acquires more makeup. Oftimes they develop a more enlightened view regarding the quality of makeup and become more aware of the difference application makes.

Now, while at the UD counter, my friend felt compelled to try something new. After all, I’d been going on and on and on all through our flight and then some about various products I needed. Her makeup routine pretty much consisted of going natural and adding some black pencil liner and mascara if she felt like it. Now, however, she was under the influence of “The Siri-effect”.

While wanting to keep her easy-going style and keeping things simple, she wanted to add to her stash. From what I remember, during our trip, she bought a tinted moisturizer, a primer (I think), some brushes (to quote my old coach: “It’s alpha and omega!”, though obviously he wasn’t referring to makeup brushes), a build your own palette including Walk of Shame (matte light beige with a hint of pink) e/s and a brush, Tease (one of my fave matte shades contouring and a transition colour), Vanilla, a light cream shimmer, and one of my personal faves, Gunmetal, a shimmery pewter gray with small pieces of glitter. I don’t remember wether she bought a 24/7 eyeliner in zero, but we each got some sample-sized ones. I’m not sure, but I think she’s a convert now (her fave used to be MAC). Fairly neutral, simple colours, but with the ability to make all the difference in the world. For your makeup, that is. UD has yet to make a product that ends hunger, cures any and every illness and creates world peace. But I’m sure they’re working on it.

Of course, these can be substituted for just any similar colour, but I prefer UD, and like I said, these are shades I know my friend’s got in her stash. Oh, and as I didn’t have Vanilla available when I did these, I subbed it for the slightly less shimmery Venus.

Anyways, I promised to help her get the hang of various looks, and especially the elusive smokey-eye. During our trip, however, we kept too busy most days to even bother going dancing most nights so we didn’t get much of a chance for me to make good on my promise. So I’m going to do something about that. My friend is a bit of a rocker chick, so the first one I’m going for her is a dramatic, dark smokey eye. Of course, anyone can make use of this, but it’s based on colours I know she’s  got in her arsenal. Enjoy.

Start with a clean, moisturized face, and Sweetie, wether you’re going with that tinted moisturizer or foundation, for now, go with your regular moisturzer. I prefer to do the eyes first, as that means

  • If you’re unhappy with the results you just wash it all off, with little effort and product wasted.
  • Fall-out. Wether it’s a light dusting on the sides of your nose and atop your cheekbones or major glitter fall-out (that’s the downer with a lot of UD shades), you don’t stand the risk of wrecking anything by applying a heavy dusting of loose powder to avod it settling before you can dust it off or removing chunks of glitter with a piece of tape, btw, that’s the most efficient way, at least that I know of, to get rid if those pesky bits of sparkle that gets everyewhere if you try to use a brush.
  • It makes adapting cheek-colour, bronzing and contouring a whole lot easier if the eyes are to be “the mane event” .

SAM_0385-1For this tutorial, I’ve cheated slightly, as it’s Sunday and I’m currently testing the Naked BB Cream. Also, as it’s Sunday, and I’m mostly just playing around with makeup, so I’m only doing the eyemakeup for this one.

Now, let’s get back to business.

Primer! Use eye primer all over the upper lid to the brows, inner corner of the eye and just underneath the lower lash line. Apply W.o.S. underneath the eye and from the crease (that’s the hollow where your movable eylid “ends”) and up to your brows.

These next steps applies mostly to the movable lid, but no worries if it gets into the crease, ‘cos were going to blend it all together anyways;)SAM_0386-1

Apply black pencil liner along your upper lash line. This doesn’t have to be even, because now your going to smudge it, using either q-tips, your fingers or a stiff brush. You’ll want this to be darkest at the base of your lashes and gradually fade as it nears the horizontal middle of your lid. If you think it’s to light, apply another layer and smudge a little less. This will give us a darker base as well as giving the e/s a little more to adhere to.

Now that we’ve made sure your eyemakeup’s going to stay put the most omportant thing you’ve got to remember is to blend-blend-blend. No harsh lines allowed for this one.

Apply Vanilla at the inner 3/4-1/3 of your upper lid.

SAM_0390-1Starting at the outer corner of the eye, moving inwards, apply Gunmetal. This will result in a gradually lighter colour as it blends into Vanilla. Use a little at the time as it’s easier to build up colour than removing it. The colour on your upper lid should now go from a dark shimmery greyat the outer corner, gradually fading to a lighter grey as it blends towards its lightest at the inner corner of the eye.SAM_0401-1

Apply Tease to the crease and blend, carefully dragging your brush back and forth without pulling the skin, erasing any harsh lines, creating a bit of depth as well as a transition into W.o.S on the brow bone.

Now for the under-eye.

SAM_0397-1Apply black liner along your lower lash line.

Keep the next steps close to the lash line. They will add a bit of softness to the look and keep the black liner from appearing too harsh.

Smudge Vanilla at the inner 1/3 and Gunmetal at the outer 1/3-1/2. Use Tease to fuse the two colours together.SAM_0398-1

Apply black liner to the upper lash line once more to intensify. More accurately this time, but if you miss, correct by lightly smudging with a stiff brush or q-tip and a light dusting of Gunmetal. This is really just a “perfectionists only step”, but then, you know me.


Remove fall-out and apply tinted moisturiser or foundation, a light dusting of blush or bronzer on your cheeks. Pawpaw or Naked lipgloss to your lips. And fill in your brows. You can use a brow powder, brow pencil, or if you haven’t got any of that, light, feathery strokes of Tease. That’s another thing that colour’s good for. Should’ve applied a teensy bit more, though.

Now, this ha turned out to be a loooooong post, but I’ve got three more steps that can come in handy to help you look slightly more bright-eyed, in spite of the dark colours.SAM_0406-1

  • Add a touch of Vanilla just underneath your brows.
  • Add a teensy bit more Vanilla to your inner corners.
  • Carefully pat a smidgen of Vanilla to the center of your lid.

Another tip: Never, ever, ever go for the skin toned, opaque beige lip. Ever. Google Kim Kardashian, as she’s known for wearing smokey eyemakeup, and you’ll see what I mean. Use a colour that lets the natural rose of your lips shine through.

Let me remind you, didn’t bother with blush, contouring and the likes this time, only BB cream and Pawpaw.

Anyone else going to give this a go?

Let me know how it works out for yous in comments.


One Comment Add yours

  1. Karrooo says:

    Haha, æ digga kim-eksempelet :p

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